The impact of methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) UVA1 filter on pigmentary and ageing signs: An outdoor prospective 8-week randomized, intra-individual comparative study in two populations of different genetic background.

BACKGROUND: Of all ultraviolet (UV) radiations reaching the earth, UVA1 rays have a higher potential of penetrating and producing clinically harmful consequences. While UV radiations up to 370 nm are well-blocked by current sunscreens, a photoprotection gap remains for the UVA1 wavelengths between 370 and 400 nm. OBJECTIVE: This study was to assess under outdoor summer conditions the impact on pigmentation and skin ageing signs of a protection against UVA1 using methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (MCE) filter added to a reference SPF50 sunscreen, in comparison with the same sunscreen without the MCE filter. MATERIALS AND METHODS: This prospective randomized comparative intra-individual study was conducted in 113 women in Brazil and China. Subjects had their face and two forearms exposed twice-daily to a 1-h outdoor sunlight exposure over 8 weeks. Before exposure, the SPF50 sunscreen containing 3% MCE was applied on one half-face and one forearm and the same reference product without MCE on the other half-face and forearm. Primary study endpoint was skin colour changes (chromametry). Other endpoints included expert panel grading of pigmentation and facial skin ageing, and naïve panel assessment of facial skin radiance and homogeneity. RESULTS: After 8 weeks, the skin was darker on both forearms but the increase in sun-induced pigmentation was smaller with the SPF50/MCE sunscreen. Expert panel evaluations showed no change in severity scores for pigmentation and a decreased severity scores for facial skin ageing in areas protected with the SPF50/MCE product: severity scores in areas protected with the SPF50 alone were either increased (pigmentation) or unchanged (skin ageing). Naïve panel evaluations of skin radiance and homogeneity showed statistically significant superiority of the SPF50/MCE product. CONCLUSION: Overall, this study demonstrates that a protection with the SPF50/MCE sunscreen significantly reduces pigmentation and ageing signs compared to the same SPF50 sunscreen.

Sunscreen photoprotection and vitamin D status.

BACKGROUND: Global concern about vitamin D deficiency has fuelled debates on photoprotection and the importance of solar exposure to meet vitamin D requirements. OBJECTIVES: To review the published evidence to reach a consensus on the influence of photoprotection by sunscreens on vitamin D status, considering other relevant factors. METHODS: An international panel of 13 experts in endocrinology, dermatology, photobiology, epidemiology and biological anthropology reviewed the literature prior to a 1-day meeting in June 2017, during which the evidence was discussed. Methods of assessment and determining factors of vitamin D status, and public health perspectives were examined and consequences of sun exposure and the effects of photoprotection were assessed. RESULTS: A serum level of ≥ 50 nmol L-1 25(OH)D is a target for all individuals. Broad-spectrum sunscreens that prevent erythema are unlikely to compromise vitamin D status in healthy populations. Vitamin D screening should be restricted to those at risk of hypovitaminosis, such as patients with photosensitivity disorders, who require rigorous photoprotection. Screening and supplementation are advised for this group. CONCLUSIONS: Sunscreen use for daily and recreational photoprotection does not compromise vitamin D synthesis, even when applied under optimal conditions. What's already known about this topic? Knowledge of the relationship between solar exposure behaviour, sunscreen use and vitamin D is important for public health but there is confusion about optimal vitamin D status and the safest way to achieve this. Practical recommendations on the potential impact of daily and/or recreational sunscreens on vitamin D status are lacking for healthy people. What does this study add? Judicious use of daily broad-spectrum sunscreens with high ultraviolet (UV) A protection will not compromise vitamin D status in healthy people. However, photoprotection strategies for patients with photosensitivity disorders that include high sun-protection factor sunscreens with high UVA protection, along with protective clothing and shade-seeking behaviour are likely to compromise vitamin D status. Screening for vitamin D status and supplementation are recommended in patients with photosensitivity disorders.

Validation of a predictive method for sunscreen formula evaluation using gene expression analysis in a Chinese reconstructed full-thickness skin model.

OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to establish a predictive in vitro method for assessing the photoprotective properties of sunscreens using a reconstructed full-thickness skin model. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A full-thickness skin model reconstructed with human fibroblasts and keratinocytes isolated from Chinese skin was exposed to daily UV radiation (DUVR). We examined the transcriptomic response, identifying genes for which expression was modulated by DUVR in a dose-dependent manner. We then validated the methodology for efficacy evaluation of different sunscreens formulas. RESULTS: The reconstructed skin model was histologically consistent with human skin, and upon DUVR exposure, the constituent fibroblasts and keratinocytes exhibited transcriptomic alterations in pathways associated with oxidative stress, inflammation and extracellular matrix remodelling. When used to evaluate sunscreen protection on the model, the observed level of protection from UV-induced gene expression was consistent with the corresponding protection factors determined clinically and allowed for statistical ranking of sunscreen efficacy. CONCLUSIONS: Within this study we show that quantification of gene modulation within the reconstructed skin model is a biologically relevant approach with sensitivity and predictability to evaluate photoprotection products.

OBJECTIF: Cette étude visait à établir une méthode prédictive in vitro permettant d'évaluer les propriétés photoprotectrices des écrans solaires à l'aide d'un modèle de peau reconstruite sur toute son épaisseur. MATÉRIELS ET MÉTHODES: Un modèle de peau reconstruite sur toute son épaisseur avec des fibroblastes et des kératinocytes humains isolés à partir de peaux chinoises a été exposé au rayonnement UV quotidien (DUVR). Nous avons examiné la réponse transcriptomique en identifiant les gènes dont l'expression était modulée par le DUVR de façon dépendante à la dose. Nous avons ensuite validé la méthodologie d'évaluation de l'efficacité des formules des différents écrans solaires. RÉSULTATS: Le modèle de peau reconstruite correspondait histologiquement à de la peau humaine, et lors de l'exposition à des DUVR, les fibroblastes et les kératinocytes qui la composaient présentaient des altérations transcriptomiques des voies associées au stress oxydatif, à l'inflammation et au remodelage de la matrice extracellulaire. Lorsque ce modèle a été utilisé pour évaluer la protection solaire, le niveau de protection observé de l'expression génique induite par les UV correspondait aux facteurs de protection cliniques déterminés correspondants et permettait un classement statistique de l'efficacité de la protection solaire. CONCLUSIONS: Dans cette étude, nous montrons que la quantification de la modulation génique dans le modèle de peau reconstruite est une approche biologiquement pertinente offrant une sensibilité et une prédictibilité pour évaluer les produits de photoprotection.

Morphological and molecular characterization of actinic lentigos reveals alterations of the dermal extracellular matrix.

BACKGROUND: Actinic lentigos (AL) are benign hyperpigmented skin lesions associated with photoageing. Despite their high prevalence, biological mechanisms driving their formation remain unclear. OBJECTIVES: To provide new insights about the physiopathology of AL through a comprehensive description of their histological and molecular features. METHODS: Quantitative analysis of dermoscopic images was used to select AL containing elongated patterns, predicted to display a highly deformed dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), on the back of the hands of 15 Caucasian women. Biopsies from lesional and adjacent nonlesional (NL) areas were processed for histological analysis or gene expression profiling. RESULTS: Histological staining confirmed a drastic deformation of the DEJ in AL, with deep epidermal invaginations into the dermis. Although the melanin content was significantly higher in AL compared with NL epidermis, the distribution of melanocytes along the DEJ was unchanged. Transcriptomic analysis revealed a signature of 529 genes differently expressed in AL vs. NL skin. Alteration of epidermal homeostasis was confirmed by the dysregulation of keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation markers. Surprisingly, canonical genes involved in melanogenesis were not significantly modulated in AL. A striking finding was the overexpression of a large group of genes involved in dermal extracellular matrix organization and remodelling. Dermal alterations were confirmed by immunolabellings on AL and NL sections. CONCLUSIONS: Drastic disorganization of the cutaneous structure in AL is accompanied by a specific molecular signature revealing alterations in both epidermal and dermal compartments. In particular, our results suggest that local modifications of the dermal extracellular matrix might contribute to hyperpigmentation in AL.

Variations in skin colour and the biological consequences of ultraviolet radiation exposure.

Harmful consequences of sun exposure range from sunburn, photoageing and pigmentary disorders to skin cancer. The incidence and extent of these detrimental effects are largely due to the degree of constitutive pigmentation of the skin. The latter can be objectively classified according to the individual typology angle (°ITA) based on colorimetric parameters. The physiological relevance of the ITA colorimetric classification was assessed in 3500 women living in various geographical areas. Furthermore, in order to understand the relationship between constitutive pigmentation and ultraviolet radiation (UVR) sensitivity, we worked on ex vivo human skin samples of different colour exposed to increasing UVR doses. For each sample we defined the biologically efficient dose (BED), based on the induction of sunburn cells, and analysed UVR-induced DNA damage (cyclobutane thymine dimers, CPD). We found a significant correlation between ITA and BED. We also found a correlation between ITA and DNA damage. As the epidermal basal layer also hosts melanocytes and in order to analyse the relationship between skin colour and DNA damage occurring specifically within this cell type, we performed double staining for CPD and tyrosinase-related protein (TRP) 1, a key enzyme in melanin synthesis. We found that DNA damage within melanocytes depends on ITA. Taken together our results may explain the higher risk of lighter skin types developing skin cancers, including melanoma, as well as the development of pigmentary disorders in moderately pigmented skin. They show that skin classification based on ITA is physiologically relevant (as it correlates with constitutive pigmentation) and further support the concept of a more personalized approach to photoprotection that corresponds to a particular skin colour type's sensitivity to solar UVR.

Assessment of ultraviolet-radiation-induced DNA damage within melanocytes in skin of different constitutive pigmentation.

BACKGROUND: Melanoma incidence and pigmentary disorders are known to be related to the degree of skin pigmentation, but few data exist on the specific impact of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on melanocytes in skin of different constitutive pigmentation. OBJECTIVES: To analyse UVR-induced DNA damage within melanocytes in different skin-colour types. METHODS: Skin samples were objectively classified into light, intermediate, tan, brown and dark skin according to their individual typology angle (°ITA), based on colorimetric parameters. Samples were exposed to increasing doses of solar simulated radiation. Detection of DNA damage specifically in melanocytes was achieved by cyclobutane thymine dimer (CPD)-tyrosinase-related protein 1 double staining. RESULTS: For light, intermediate and tan skin, accumulation of CPDs in melanocytes was detected at the lowest dose, with a steep increase with dose. At estimated erythemally equivalent doses, around 80-100% of melanocytes were positive for CPDs in tan, intermediate and light skin types. In contrast, in dark and brown skin types, CPDs were found in only approximately 15% of melanocytes at the highest dose. CONCLUSIONS: This work demonstrates that melanocytes from constitutively highly pigmented skin types are less impacted in terms of UVR-induced DNA damage than those from lighter skin types, even those that are moderately pigmented.

Skin responses to topical dehydroepiandrosterone: implications in antiageing treatment?

BACKGROUND: Although low dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) is suspected to have a role in skin ageing, little information is available on the mechanisms potentially involved. OBJECTIVES: To obtain information on androgen receptor (AR) and procollagen expression in ageing skin during DHEA treatment. METHODS: A placebo-controlled, randomized, prospective study was performed with 75 postmenopausal women aged 60-65 years. The women were treated twice daily for 13 weeks with 3·0 mL of placebo or 0·1%, 0·3%, 1% or 2% DHEA cream applied on the face, arms, back of hands, upper chest and right thigh where 2-mm biopsies were collected before and after treatment. RESULTS: Although the overall structure of the epidermis was not significantly affected at the light microscopy level, AR expression examined by immunocytochemistry was markedly increased by DHEA treatment. In the dermis, the expression levels of procollagen 1 and 3 mRNA estimated by in situ hybridization were increased by DHEA treatment. In addition, the expression of heat shock protein (HSP) 47, a molecule believed to have chaperone-like functions potentially affecting procollagen biosynthesis, was also found by immunocytochemistry evaluation to be increased, especially at the two highest DHEA doses. CONCLUSION: These data suggest the possibility that topical DHEA could be used as an efficient and physiological antiageing skin agent.

Pangenomic changes induced by DHEA in the skin of postmenopausal women.

The objective of this study was to explore, for the first time, the changes in the pangenomic profile induced in human skin in women treated with dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) applied locally. Sixty postmenopausal women participated in this phase II prospective, randomized, double-blind and placebo-controlled study. Women were randomized to the twice daily local application of 0% (placebo), 0.3%, 1% or 2% DHEA cream. Changes in the pangenomic expression profile were studied using Affymetrix Genechips. Significant changes (p<0.05) in sixty-six DHEA-responsive probe sets corresponding to 52 well-characterized genes and 9 unknown gene sequences were identified. A dose-dependent increase in the expression of several members of the collagen family was observed, namely COL1, COL3 and COL5 as well as the concomitant modulation of SPARC, a gene required for the normal deposition and maturation of collagen fibrils in the dermis. Several genes involved in the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes were also modulated. In addition, topical DHEA reduced the expression of genes associated with the terminal differentiation and cornification of keratinocytes. Our results strongly suggest the possibility that DHEA could exert an anti-aging effect in the skin through stimulation of collagen biosynthesis, improved structural organization of the dermis while modulating keratinocyte metabolism.

Overexpression of matrix metalloproteinase 1 in dermal fibroblasts from DNA repair-deficient/cancer-prone xeroderma pigmentosum group C patients.

Xeroderma pigmentosum (XP) is a rare, recessively inherited genetic disease characterized by skin cancer proneness and premature aging in photoexposed area. The disease results from defective nucleotide excision repair of ultraviolet (UV)-induced DNA lesions. Reconstruction of group C (XP-C) skin in vitro previously suggested that patients' dermal fibroblasts might be involved in promoting skin cancer development, as they elicited microinvasions of both control and XP-C keratinocytes within dermal equivalents. Here we show that in the absence of UV exposure XP-C fibroblasts exhibit aged-like features such as an elongated and dendritic shape. We analysed the repertoire of expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) involved in skin aging and cancer. All XP-C fibroblasts tested in this study overexpressed specifically and significantly MMP1. MMP1 expression was also found increased in the dermis of XP-C skin sections suggesting the active contribution of XP-C mesenchymal cells to skin aging and exacerbated carcinogenesis. Increased MMP1 expression in cultured XP-C fibroblasts resulted from MMP1 mRNA accumulation and enhanced transcriptional activity of the MMP1 gene promoter. Deletion analysis revealed the essential role of AP-1 activation in constitutive MMP1 overexpression in XP-C primary fibroblasts. In parallel, levels of reactive oxygen species and FOSB DNA-binding activity were found increased in XP-C fibroblasts. Altogether, these observations suggest that beyond its role in nucleotide excision repair the XPC protein may be important in cell metabolism and fate in the absence of UV.

Relationship between skin response to ultraviolet exposure and skin color type.

Sun exposure is responsible for detrimental damage ranging from sunburn to photoaging and skin cancer. This damage is likely to be influenced by constitutive pigmentation. The relationship between ultraviolet (UV) sensitivity and skin color type was analyzed on 42 ex vivo skin samples objectively classified from light to dark skin, based on their values of individual typology angle (ITA) determined by colorimetric parameters. The biologically efficient dose (BED) was determined for each sample by quantifying sunburn cells after exposure to increasing doses of UV solar-simulated radiation. Typical UV-induced biologic markers, other than erythema, such as DNA damage, apoptosis and p53 accumulation, were analyzed. A statistically significant correlation was found between ITA and BED and, ITA and DNA damage. Interestingly, DNA lesions were distributed throughout the whole epidermal layers and the uppermost dermal cells in light, intermediate and tanned skin while they were restricted to suprabasal epidermal layers in brown or dark skin. Our data support, at the cellular level, the relationship between UV sensitivity and skin color type. They emphasize the impact of DNA damage accumulation in basal layer in relation to the prevalence of skin cancer.

Protection of skin biological targets by different types of sunscreens.

In vitro and in vivo studies provide a body of evidence that adequate protection of the skin against ultraviolet (UV)-induced damage requires photostable broad-spectrum sunscreens with a proper level of UVA protection. UVA alone and UV solar simulated radiation (SSR) induce DNA lesions in keratinocytes and melanocytes as reflected by the comet assay and p53 accumulation. UVA and SSR impair the immune system as shown by significant alteration of Langerhans cells and inhibition of contact hypersensitivity response to chemical allergens and delayed-type hypersensitivity response to recall antigens. Any of these detrimental effects is more efficiently prevented by sunscreens with a higher level of protection in the UVA range. The involvement of UVA (fibroblast alteration, increased metalloproteinase expression) and the pivotal need for well-balanced UVA/UVB sunscreens were further demonstrated using reconstructed three-dimensional skin models.

Photostability of sunscreen products influences the efficiency of protection with regard to UV-induced genotoxic or photoageing-related endpoints.

BACKGROUND: Acute as well as chronic sun exposure induces biologically damaging effects in skin including photoageing and cancer. Ultraviolet (UV)A radiation is involved in this process; it is therefore important that sunscreen products provide efficient and stable protection in this range of wavelengths. OBJECTIVES: This study based on in vitro approaches was performed to demonstrate that photostability is an essential requirement to protect against UVA-induced genetic and dermal alterations. METHODS: The protection afforded by two sunscreen products, differing with regard to their photostability, was studied using biological markers related to the genotoxic or photoageing impact of UVA or simulated solar UV radiation (UV-SSR). Comet assay was used to assess direct DNA breakage, photo-oxidized purines and lomefloxacin-induced DNA breaks in nuclei of normal human keratinocytes in culture. In similar conditions, detection of p53 accumulation was performed. The use of reconstructed skin in vitro allowed us to use a three-dimensional model to analyse the dermal and epidermal damage induced by UVA or UV-SSR exposure. Abnormal morphological features of the tissue as well as fibroblast alterations and matrix metalloproteinase-1 release induced by UV exposure have been studied after topical application of products on the skin surface. RESULTS: The results showed that the photostable product afforded better protection with regard to all the criteria studied, compared with the photounstable product. CONCLUSIONS: These data demonstrate that the loss of absorbing efficiency within the UVA wavelength domain due to photoinstability may have detrimental consequences on cell function and lead to impairments that have been implicated in genotoxic events as well as in the photoageing process.

Gene expression profiles of three different models of reconstructed human epidermis and classical cultures of keratinocytes using cDNA arrays.

The gene expression profiles of three different models of reconstructed human epidermis were analyzed in a comparative study using cDNA array technology. The study also included normal human subconfluent keratinocytes cultured on plastic. Arrays were custom-made and comprised 504 known genes related to cutaneous biology. The gene expression profiles of the three reconstructed epidermis models shared 86% similarity; only 22 of the 504 examined genes showed a different expression level. A comparison of the 3D models with keratinocyte cultures on plastic dishes revealed a set of six genes with a considerably higher expression in the 3D models. These genes were keratin 1, corneodesmosin, filaggrin, loricrin, calmodulin-like skin protein and caspase 14, all related to keratinocyte terminal differentiation. The reported data may contribute to a better understanding and characterization of reconstructed epidermal models and may also serve as established references for investigations related to epidermal differentiation and proliferation.

Ultraviolet B induces hyperproliferation and modification of epidermal differentiation in normal human skin grafted on to nude mice.

BACKGROUND: For ethical and technical reasons, the in vivo biological effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on skin are difficult to study in human volunteers. The use of human skin grafted on to nude mice may circumvent this difficulty. OBJECTIVES: To investigate the effects of a single moderate UVB exposure on human skin grafted on to nude mice. METHODS: Modifications of epidermal differentiation markers and patterns of keratin expression were assessed from 24 h to 14 days after a physiological UVB irradiation characterized by the induction of sunburn cells. RESULTS: During the first 48 h postexposure, involucrin, loricrin, transglutaminase type I, filaggrin and keratin K2e expression were altered together with the formation of abnormal horny layers. Constitutive keratin K14 was increased while keratin K10 expression was delayed. Newly synthesized keratins K6, K16, K17 and K19 were induced in parallel with an increase in the epidermal proliferation rate. A progressive normalization of both keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation took place during the following days, reaching completion within 2 weeks. CONCLUSIONS: Exposure of human skin to a UVB dose corresponding to a mild sunburn reaction induces epidermal hyperproliferation and alterations of several constitutive differentiation markers, as well as a drastic modification in the pattern of epidermal keratins. Although these modifications were shown to be progressively reversed in a single exposure model, the data also suggest that subsequent UV exposures occurring during the recovery period may lead to potentially deleterious long-term consequences, such as photoageing and photocarcinogenesis. Grafted human skin appeared to be an attractive and promising model for investigating the biological consequences of UVB radiation in vivo.

Clues to epidermal cancer proneness revealed by reconstruction of DNA repair-deficient xeroderma pigmentosum skin in vitro.

Sun exposure has been clearly implicated in premature skin aging and neoplastic development. These features are exacerbated in patients with xeroderma pigmentosum (XP), a hereditary disease, the biochemical hallmark of which is a severe deficiency in the nucleotide excision repair of UV-induced DNA lesions. To develop an organotypic model of DNA repair deficiency, we have cultured several strains of primary XP keratinocytes and XP fibroblasts from skin biopsies of XP patients. XP skin comprising both a full-thickness epidermis and a dermal equivalent was successfully reconstructed in vitro. Satisfactory features of stratification were obtained, but the expression of epidermal differentiation products, such as keratin K10 and loricrin, was delayed and reduced. In addition, the proliferation of XP keratinocytes was more rapid than that of normal keratinocytes. Moreover, increased deposition of cell attachment proteins, alpha-6 and beta-1 integrins, was observed in the basement membrane zone, and beta-1 integrin subunit, the expression of which is normally confined to basal keratinocytes, extended into several suprabasal cell layers. Most strikingly, the in vitro reconstructed XP skin displayed numerous proliferative epidermal invasions within dermal equivalents. Epidermal invasion and higher proliferation rate are reminiscent of early steps of neoplasia. Compared with normal skin, the DNA repair deficiency of in vitro reconstructed XP skin was documented by long-lasting persistence of UVB-induced DNA damage in all epidermal layers, including the basal layer from which carcinoma develops. The availability of in vitro reconstructed XP skin provides opportunities for research in the fields of photoaging, photocarcinogenesis, and tissue therapy.

Regulation of keratin expression by ultraviolet radiation: differential and specific effects of ultraviolet B and ultraviolet a exposure.

Skin, the most superficial tissue of our body, is the first target of environmental stimuli, among which is solar ultraviolet radiation. Very little is known about the regulation of keratin gene expression by ultraviolet radiation, however, although (i) it is well established that ultraviolet exposure is involved in skin cancers and photoaging and (ii) keratins represent the major epidermal proteins. The aim of this study was to analyze the regulation of human keratin gene expression under ultraviolet B (290-320 nm) or ultraviolet A (320-400 nm) irradiation using a panel of constructs comprising different human keratin promoters cloned upstream of a chloramphenicol acetyl transferase reporter gene and transfected into normal epidermal keratinocytes. By this approach, we demonstrated that ultraviolet B upregulated the transcription of keratin 19 gene and to a lesser extent the keratin 6, keratin 5, and keratin 14 genes. The DNA sequence responsible for keratin 19 induction was localized between -130 and +1. In contrast to ultraviolet B, ultraviolet A irradiation induced only an increase in keratin 17, showing a differential gene regulation between these two ultraviolet ranges. The induction of keratin 19 was confirmed by studying the endogenous protein in keratinocytes in classical cultures as well as in skin reconstructed in vitro and normal human skin. These data show for the first time that keratin gene expression is regulated by ultraviolet radiation at the transcriptional level with a specificity regarding the ultraviolet domain of solar light.

Evaluation of the protective effect of sunscreens on in vitro reconstructed human skin exposed to UVB or UVA irradiation.

We have previously shown that skin reconstructed in vitro is a useful model to study the effects of UVB and UVA exposure. Wavelength-specific biological damage has been identified such as the formation of sunburn cells (SBC) and pyrimidine dimers after UVB irradiation and alterations of dermal fibroblasts after UVA exposure. These specific effects were selected to evaluate the protection afforded by two sunscreens after topical application on the skin surface. Simplified formulations having different absorption spectra but similar sun protection factors were used. One contained a classical UVB absorber, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate. The other contained a broad-spectrum absorber called Mexoryl SX, characterized by its strong absorbing potency in the UVA range. Both filters were used at 5% in a simple water/oil vehicle. The evaluation of photoprotection on in vitro reconstructed skin revealed good efficiency for both preparations in preventing UVB-induced damage, as shown by SBC counting and pyrimidine dimer immunostaining. By contrast, only the Mexoryl SX-containing preparation was able to efficiently prevent UVA-specific damage such as dermal fibroblast disappearance. Our data further support the fact that skin reconstructed in vitro is a reliable system to evaluate the photoprotection provided by different sunscreens against specific UVB and UVA biological damage.

Galectin-7 overexpression is associated with the apoptotic process in UVB-induced sunburn keratinocytes.

Galectin-7 is a beta-galactoside binding protein specifically expressed in stratified epithelia and notably in epidermis, but barely detectable in epidermal tumors and absent from squamous carcinoma cell lines. Galectin-7 gene is an early transcriptional target of the tumor suppressor protein P53 [Polyak, K., Xia, Y., Zweier, J., Kinzler, K. & Vogelstein, B. (1997) Nature (London) 389, 300-305]. Because p53 transcriptional activity is increased by genotoxic stresses we have examined the possible effects of ultraviolet radiations (UVB) on galectin-7 expression in epidermal keratinocytes. The amounts of galectin-7 mRNA and protein are increased rapidly after UVB irradiation of epidermal keratinocytes. The increase of galectin-7 is parallel to P53 stabilization. UVB irradiation of skin reconstructed in vitro and of human skin ex vivo demonstrates that galectin-7 overexpression is associated with sunburn/apoptotic keratinocytes. Transfection of a galectin-7 expression vector results in a significant increase in terminal deoxynucleotidyltransferase-mediated UTP end labeling-positive keratinocytes. The present findings demonstrate a keratinocyte-specific protein involved in the UV-induced apoptosis, an essential process in the maintenance of epidermal homeostasis.

UVA exposure of human skin reconstructed in vitro induces apoptosis of dermal fibroblasts: subsequent connective tissue repair and implications in photoaging.

The skin reconstructed in vitro has been previously shown to be a useful model to investigate the effects of UVB exposure (Bernerd and Asselineau, 1997). The present study describes the response to UVA irradiation. Major alterations were observed within the dermal compartment. Apoptosis of fibroblasts located in the superficial area of the dermal equivalent was observed as soon as 6 h after irradiation, leading to their disappearance after 48 h. This effect was obtained without major alterations of epidermal keratinocytes suggesting a differential cell type sensitivity to UVA radiations. In addition, collagenase I was secreted by dermal fibroblasts. The UVA dermal effects could be observed even after removal of the epidermis during the post irradiation period, demonstrating that they were independent of the keratinocyte response. The analysis of the tissue regeneration during the following 2 weeks revealed a connective tissue repair via fibroblasts proliferation, migration and active synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins such as fibronectin and procollagen I. This cellular recolonization of the superficial part of the dermal equivalent was due to activation of surviving fibroblasts located deeply in the dermal equivalent. The direct damage in the dermis and the subsequent connective tissue repair may contribute to the formation of UVA-induced dermal alterations.

Successive alteration and recovery of epidermal differentiation and morphogenesis after specific UVB-damages in skin reconstructed in vitro.

The sequence of events affecting skin morphogenesis occurring after a single exposure to UVB was investigated on a model of human skin reconstructed in vitro. The biologically efficient dose (BED) able to induce the early UVB-DNA damages such as pyrimidine dimers, sunburn cells, and apoptotic keratinocytes was determined as 50 mJ/cm2. The subsequent changes induced during a period of 14 days following irradiation were analyzed. Up to Day 3, an epidermal disorganization led to a parakeratotic epidermis characterized by nucleated horny layers, as well as the down regulation of major markers of keratinocyte differentiation such as keratin 10, loricrin, filaggrin, and the keratinocyte transglutaminase (type I). On the contrary, the expression of involucrin and spr1 seemed to be unaffected, indicating distinct responses to UVB of proteins involved in keratinocyte differentiation. A progressive regeneration of normal epidermal morphogenesis begins from Day 4 leading to the normalization of keratinocyte differentiation at Day 10 to 14. In parallel, epidermal proliferation was increased. Taken together, these findings show that in skin reconstructed in vitro, UVB exposure leads to major epidermal developmental changes characterized by (i) an early apoptotic process, (ii) a subsequent down-regulation of specific keratinocyte differentiation markers, and (iii) the recovery of both the early and delayed effects resulting in normal epidermal morphogenesis.